My Approach to Studio Design

Throughout the past 100 years or so there have been many different approaches developed for designing control rooms. Pretty much every approach has its followers. The way that I generally design control rooms incorporates elements from a number of traditional approaches. For more specific information on studio design principles and philosophies, there are a number of great websites and books such as the Master Handbook of Acoustics, Philip Newell’s Recording Studio Design, and Floyd Toole’s Sound Reproduction.

When compared to other approaches, I believe that what I like to do most closely resembles Northward Acoustics’s FTB designs but done to a lesser extreme since most people don’t have the luxury of losing so much floor space for treatment, having permanent construction alterations to the room, and of course, the cost.

I start by splitting rooms into 3 zones. The front which encompasses everything up to a little in front of the listening position, the listening position which is the area to the sides of and above the listening position, and the rear which is the rest of the room behind that. In general, I like to absorb all of the first reflections regardless of what zone they’re in. Using other techniques can lead to a wider sound but you trade off for precision in imaging. The front wall reflection point is a little less critical since you don’t get too much high frequency content travelling backwards from the speakers.

In the front zone, I like to have as much bass trapping as possible (using diaphragmatic absorbers as discussed in a previous post). The low end pressure has a tendency to build up around the speakers so I like to treat this as early as possible. This generally involves using large panels across the front corners as well as thick clouds.

In the listening position zone, I start to ease back on the low end absorption. In rooms with lower ceilings it can be helpful to use clouds here as well. This is the position where I’ll use more reflective and diffusive elements. This isn’t to interact with the speakers but rather for the comfort of the people in the room. This use of diffusion is very similar to that of Northward Acoustics. It helps with not feeling like your brain is getting sucked out of your head when you sit in the room either on your own or talking to other people. Of course some absorption in this zone can be beneficial depending on how it interacts with the room modes.

The rear zone is where I have the most freedom. The first thing which I always do is use a large bass trap on the back wall and potentially corners. This is where I generally put the thickest absorbers which the project will allow. In my own studio, I use a 12” thick panel along the back wall which has a number of different diaphragmatic materials inside. This also absorbs the rear wall first reflection point. I’m not a fan of placing diffusers there as again, while it can create a more pleasing sound, it takes away from the imaging.

The rest of the walls and ceiling of the rear zone I vary depending on the needs of the project. I’m very careful in this area to maintain an open sound as this is generally where clients will be hanging out and talking. I use a very careful balance of high frequency absorption, diffusion, and reflection which can always sit in front of diaphragmatic absorbers. This can also be used as a recording space. In my own studio, I’ve recorded a number of singers as well as guitar with excellent results. It’s a dry sound but very neutral and open. These parts of the room don’t react all that much with the speakers (other than the modal behavior) so I don’t worry too much about that.

In the studios I’ve designed, I use a variety of materials as mentioned in my diaphragmatic absorbers post. In terms of porous absorbers, I generally use Roxul Safe n’ Sound. I rarely use 703 as it normally does more harm that good. I’ve found that 703 is full of resonances and reflective behavior. There’s also the issue that you really shouldn’t use it beyond 4” thick. This has to do with the gas flow resistivity and acoustic impedance. In general, as your panels get thicker, less dense materials will provide better absorption. 703 is technically more effective in 2” panels than Roxul but it has the issues I previously mentioned so I find that Roxul ends up making rooms sound a lot better. Where I do use more rigid materials similar to 703 is in some small panels I like to use similar to those used by Golden Acoustics. I’ve found that using them in small pieces gets rid of the resonances.

One important thing to note with porous absorbers is where to place them when using them for low frequency absorbers. Contrary to popular belief, putting them in corners is the worst place to put them. Sound has both a pressure and velocity component to it which are inversely related. Yes, corners are where you get the pressure build up but porous absorbers work based on the velocity component. The reason that people put porous absorbers across the corners is that it’s the most convenient way to get the most distance away from the wall where porous absorbers get more effective. You can easily get a panel across a corner having a distance of over 12” away from the corner. Putting panels that are 12” away from the walls is generally not doable in most situations. By carefully studying the modal behavior of rooms, You can get more absorption with a panel on a wall away from the corner than a panel sitting across a corner. Despite this, I still normally put large panels across corners as it’s convenient for getting good distance away from the wall and provides a more broadband absorption.

When designing rooms, using a combination of measurements and listening is critical. Just going off of measurements likely won’t give you great results. After years of experimentation I can design rooms without necessarily having to listen by going off of my previous knowledge of what works and what doesn’t but many of the things I do either don’t make a difference in the measurements or actually make them worse but improve the listening experience. I generally use measurements to have a better idea of what problems I’m dealing with, how much treatment is necessary, and where to best place low frequency absorbers. Later on in projects I’ll continue to take measurements to see how well certain issues are responding to the treatment and to get a general idea of the final measurements in a room.

Unless one uses exorbitant amounts of treatment, a room will never be flat and it’s important to acknowledge that. Large peaks must be brought down and dips need to be filled in to the best of your ability. The most important factor is the decay time. No amount of EQ or DSP can deal with issues in the decay time. What EQ and DSP can deal with is flattening the rest of the room (within reason) after the treatment has done its job. I believe the EQ/DSP is critical in any studio regardless of the amount of treatment done to the room but of course high quality units and careful tuning needs to be done otherwise they’ll do more harm than good. In the box EQs can work well, Trinnov is a fairly good external unit, but IMO nothing beats the DEQX units. Even acoustic treatment can do more harm than good if not applied properly…

One thing I haven’t mentioned is the use of active acoustics. While I’ve done some research on low frequency absorption via active means, I haven’t applied it in any of the rooms I’ve designed. It can be very beneficial but I believe that traditional means need to also be employed in order to achieve great results. Where I have explored active acoustics more is in performance and recording spaces where they can be very useful. I may write a blog post about this but for anyone interested, you can find a paper I wrote on this on my Products page.

Tube Microphone Design

I wanted to share a little bit about the story behind the tube microphone I designed (term used loosely) and the process that went into it.

My microphone is essentially a clone of a clone of a clone. It started with a pair of microphones owned by Ken Goerres that I was fortunate enough to get to use in LA. These were built by Howard Gale under the brand Sonic Integrity Labs. I know very little Howard other than that he was known for building very nice power supplies. I believe only a handful of these mics were made. Howard passed away a few years ago.

After taking a look inside one of these microphones, I figured the circuit was simple enough for me to build on my own but I couldn’t see everything going on and don’t know enough about electronics to fill in the gaps. A few years later, I came across an article written by David Royer which described a microphone he designed and sold a DIY kit for many years ago. This microphone eventually became the Mojave MA200 which Mojave was founded on. Royer’s microphone is essentially a modified U47 circuit with a 67 style capsule.

As I later learned, Howard took the original Royer kit and modified it to improve it. My goal was to clone (get close to? improve?) Howard’s mic which was a slightly modified version of the MA200 which is the modified U47 circuit. A clone of a clone of a clone.

My “design” work didn’t involve modifying the circuit in any way other than changing some transformer and capacitor values. I was mainly “voicing” the microphone. Considering that I don’t have access to a Howard mic in Canada, I bought an MA200 to be able to compare to and make sure that my microphone was a step ahead of it.

There were 4 elements that I voiced - the capsule, microphone transformer, tube, and capacitors. It was done in the order mention so that the elements that make the bigger differences were established first and I then focused on smaller and smaller details.

Starting with the capsule, I had 4 choices ranging from about $50 to $300. The cheaper Chinese ones had a less extended top end and more closed sound. The higher end ones brought a more open sound which more closely matched the MA200.

For the microphone transformer I once again got 4 different transformers to test, 2 of which were custom made. Some had a very transient and aggressive sound while others had a darker and more liquid sound. I chose to go with the later.

With the tubes, there are only so many 5840 tubes that I can repeatedly buy so I ended up with only 2 choices. both of which were NOS parts. The differences here were starting to get very subtle but one tube offered a more open sound.

The last element which I focused on testing and which involved the most extensive testing were the capacitors. Royer’s circuit uses only 2 capacitors in the microphone. While this may not seem like much, I had over 150 possible combinations of capacitors to try out. Theoretically changing the values of these capacitors should have essentially no effect on the sound but I found that not to be true. Some of the capacitors I tried out were Solen, RTX, AudioCap, Axon, NOS Russian, Mundorf, and Sonicap. Although the differences they made were subtle, getting the right combination was key to having an excellent sounding microphone. Ultimately I ended up with 3 top choices for one of the capacitors and 5 for the others. This led to 15 combinations which I picked a winner from. I chose a combination which was a little fast and transient as well as open which worked well with the transformer that I chose to use.

The result is an excellent versatile microphone. with some very high end components that have been meticulously voiced. I am offering them for sale for $850 USD (discount on pairs). Compared to the MA200 which sells for $1200 USD, I can say that mine uses much higher end components. Whether or not it sounds better is subjective. I’m also offering a version for $550 as a way to use up the parts that didn’t make it into the final design. These are still parts which are at least on par with what is in the MA200 and gets you a sound that’s still in the ballpark of the MA200. Arguably better.

Getting the design to where it is today took countless hours but I’m happy with the end result and look forward to using these microphones in future sessions.

Diaphragmatic Absorbers

I’ll write about more general studio acoustics and my approach to studio design in later posts. For now I’ll dive a little into diaphragmatic absorbers. I’ll preface this by saying that there are a number of things I can’t share as it’s either proprietary technology I’ve developed on my own or trade secrets that I learned from one of my mentors, Ken Goerres of Haikoustics.

There are a couple of general categories of bass trapping which people refer to and use. The most basic is simple porous absorbers which normally use insulation materials such as OC 703 or Roxul/Rockwood. Porous absorbers are very inefficient at providing low end absorption unless very thick panels are used (2’?). Other approaches are needed for effective bass absorption.

The 2 categories which normally come up are membrane absorbers and Helmholtz resonators. Membrane absorbers use a sealed cabinet which essentially act as a drum at certain frequencies and subsequently absorb energy out of the room. Helmholtz resonators use chambers tuned to certain frequencies. I won’t go into more depth on those as you can find plenty of info online and in books.

The problem with these 2 types of absorbers are that they have a narrow bandwidth and are tricky to construct (equations don’t translate to real-world built panels so trial-and-error is often required). The approach which I use in my studio and other studios I’ve designed is diaphragmatic absorbers. Terminology is a little blurred in the industry so you may see others calling membrane absorbers diaphragmatic or use other names for what I refer to as diaphragmatic absorbers.

A diaphragmatic absorber is nothing more than a sheet of some material which is damped by another material. Unlike a membrane absorber, there is no sealed cabinet. This allows the sheet to vibrate in a wider range of frequencies.

In my testing I’ve found the dampening to be critical. A vibrating sheet on its own has the potential to absorb large amounts of energy and cause impressive changes in the measured frequency response of a room. The issue is that as the sheet vibrates with a long decay time, it re-radiates sound into the room acting similarly to a speaker. This causes issues in the decay time the room. By dampening the sheet, you get less absorption but also correct the timing response of the panel.

It’s important to note that diaphragmatic absorbers work based on the velocity component of sound rather than pressure as membrane absorbers. This has certain implications on where they’re most effective in a room. Flexibility in the thickness allows thicker panels to be used where more absorption is required (increasing the porous absorption component of the panel). Multiple diaphragmatic layers can also be used in thicker panels.

What kinds of materials work as diaphragmatic absorbers? Sheets of wood, plexiglass, metal, rubber, paper, and certain kinds of foam. I’ve done extensive research and development testing out a variety of materials to find what works best. The choice of material determines the frequency range of absorption. In the studios I design, I use different materials to target 20Hz - 80Hz, 70Hz - 150Hz, and 100Hz - 200Hz.

The use of diaphragmatic absorbers is in no way my own revolutionary idea. Companies such as Primacoustics and GIK Acoustics offer diaphragmatic absorbers such as GIK’s range limiter options.

One type of panel which I have no firsthand experience with but am keen to experiment with are VPR absorbers. These consist of an incredibly large and heavy metal plate that is glued onto IsoBond. They seem to offer very low frequency absorption at thicknesses of only 4”. The issues are the cost of the metal plates and difficulty in mounting them onto a wall due to the weight. RPG offers this technology in their Modex panels which cost a meager $800 per panel.

Do Digital Cables Matter?

Over the last few weeks this has come up a number of times in discussions with a couple of mastering engineers. Yes, they do matter. Do I know why? In some cases, yes. In other cases, no but I have some theories. All I know is that they do have audible effects (although not always but I’ll get to that later).

The first aspect which most people discuss is jitter. If a cable rounds off the edges of the signal in a digital cable during transmission, this can lead to increased jitter. The device on the receiving end may “trigger” a change of state at incorrect times because of the sloping on the square wave. Some devices are more influenced by this than others. Such devices are the ones which are also greatly affected by differences in clocking. A system which is not prone to jitter will not care about this rounding off of edges caused by the cable. One solution to this is to run a separate wordclock cable. The wordclock cable will affect the jitter but the other cable will be used purely as data transmission so the quality of the cable should be irrelevant. In practice, I’ve found this to not be the case and I can only theorize as to why.

My only explanation to cables which are purely for data transmission and not clocking (this includes USB cables) causing a difference has to do with noise. I believe that the electrical connection between devices can result in noise being introduced into the receiving device. Not only can this affect jitter, but it can affect any other circuitry. Paul McGowan of PS Audio once mentioned a story about their DACs sounding different when playing WAV vs FLAC files. The data was identical. They eventually found the difference to be caused by the processor in the unit using more power for decoding FLAC files which put a strain on the power supply and made other parts of the circuity behave differently. It’s not that far of a leap to think that a digital input can wreak similar havoc in a device. Is more shielding on the cable always better? No. There’s something else going on here as well. Adding to the idea of the electrical connection causing trouble, I think that grounding is also involved in this jumble of electricity.

One easy fix to this problem is to use optical cables which galvanically isolate the circuits. Unfortunately, optical cables have increased jitter so it brings us back to square one. When clocking devices with wordclock, then optical provides the perfect solution truly making the quality of the data transmission cables irrelevant. Of course then you need to worry about the quality of your wordclock cables.

What do I think is the ideal setup with digital connections? Using optical cable on a system that uses reclocking or is largely immune to jitter. The DEQX is such a device. It conveniently has all digital input formats so I’ve been able to try them all and determined this to be ideal. Upgrading to glass cables rather than plastic did offer a small improvement so it’s not completely immune to jitter. If your system is highly influenced by clocking and jitter then I recommend trying out as many formats as you can to see what works best.

It’s worth pointing out that there are some cases where the quality of the cables are irrelevant. Jitter and noise only matter in systems that involve a conversion to analog. That means any sort of recording or monitoring. In a purely digital system, then it doesn’t matter. If you have a piece of outboard with digital I/O and all you’re doing is printing something through it, then it won’t matter. The data recorded will always be identical as it’s merely a data transfer. If, however, you’re monitoring while recording through that, the quality of the cables will affect how things sound and very likely the “live” version heard while printing through it will sound different from playing back the recorded file afterwards due to differences in jitter and everything else mentioned.

Based on what I’ve said, it’s easy to see where clocking matters and doesn’t as well as why clocking matters. I won’t go in depth here but in most cases it can make large differences depending on the gear and 10MHz clocking is not the way to go. If you’re in the market for a clock, I’d recommend the Black Lion unit and the ones from Grimm Audio. For an excellent article on all things relating to clocking, check out “The Future of Clocks” on Pink Noise Magazine. A must read for all engineers in the digital era.

Shameless plug - For optical cables I’ve been using Lifatec which aren’t too expensive but are glass. For all other digital cables, I haven’t found anything that sounds better than the cables I make. If you’re interested in trying some out, get in touch with me.